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Owner Tips

Several Suzuki enthusiasts around the globe have written handy guides and useful reference sheets, and I've gathered a few together here. As with any such resource, this information is provided as information only, and I accept no responsibility for injury to you, your friends, or to your machine. You are responsible for doing your own due diligence and research as to the appropriateness of the information for your situation and requirements.

In most cases, just 'click' on the link to open, or you can right click and then select 'Save link as'. And if you have something that you would like to contribute, just drop me a line !

Carburettor Linkage Repairs

From Tim Harwood in the UK :

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Gearing Chart

From Richard Nowson in the USA:

Steering Stem Bearings, HT Leads and Brakes

From Keith Rudd in the UK:

* a series of articles on master cylinder, calliper and rear brake service and while written for the GT750, the general instructions apply to most early 1970's Suzuki - please note that if you have any doubts at all, or have never done this sort of service work before - get help. A botched brake repair could prove to be fatal not just to you, but also to anyone you run into.

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Water Pumps:

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Puller

Baffle Removal

There are several tricks you can try for removing the baffles on Suzuki, or indeed any make of two stroke exhaust. The baffles often are glued in with coke, carbon and rust in those cases where the bike has sat un-used for decades.The most important point is to go slowly.

Looking at Suzuki triples specifically, something to be aware of is that the interior bulk head plates inside the pipes are only spot welded to the inboard side of the pipe. The outboard side is just pressed against the outer exhaust skin. As a result, if an internal header has been bent or damaged in some way by a previous owner, removal of the baffle will be very difficult as the damaged plate will jam the baffle. Cutting the pipe open and then re-welding it may be your only option.

In those instances where you are pretty sure the problem is just coke and/or carbon then:

Oil Pump Shaft Seal

Ian Judd in the UK is one of several folks who have come up with a solution for leaking shaft seals on the injector pump. These use a 'u' seal from the factory which seems to be completely unavailable and so other types of seals including o-rings have been tried, generally with poor success. Ian uses an 'x' ring seal and has produced a very good write up explaining what he did. You can download it from here.

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